Koh Pha Ngan is an island in the Gulf of Thailand (think the east side of the country). Anne and I headed there after we left Khoa Sok National Park to find some diving and relaxing in the nice weather. What we found was an awesome island that I will have to go back to. This has probably been my favorite place so far in Thailand because there is tons to do and the atmosphere is really laid back and chill (the fact that it is very slow season helps a bunch).
We stayed at a great guesthouse called Sun View Resort which is on the west side of the island near the beach Haad Yao. The guesthouse was really chill and there was a great restaurant at the top of the hill where you could watch the sunset while eating great food and lying on some really comfy cushions. Our bungalow was also great as it was the third one up the hill from the beach. You could still see and hear the ocean which was a great way to fall asleep (when it wasn't gale force winds - or seemed like it - at night).
The weather was not all that great for the 5 days we were there, but it didn't matter that much. Anne and I braved the rain and a little bit of wind to go out and find our adventures. The first day (rainy and windy) we just kind of chilled and explored around our guesthouse for a while. After that, however, we got a little bored and wanted to explore the island so we rented some motorbikes. Talk about a crazy way to get around. The rental process was really easy. The women who rented us the bikes agreed on our price (150 Baht a day - about $5) and then asked us for our passports (collateral), showed us the basic operation of the motorbikes (luckily they were automatics) and then sent us down the road (think 35 feet) to fill up on gas.
Anne and I were bats out of heck on our motorbikes (I can't say hell because we did not go fast enough for that). The first day we went to the other side of the island to explore the "party" town of Haad Rin (this is where the full, half, and black moon parties are). The going was a little slow because we were still getting used to the bikes, but we made it up the big steep hills (some as steep as 20% - at least that is what the signs said). Then it was back to the hostel since it was raining and we were starting to get soaked.
Day two brought on more riding. We decided to go diving the next day so we rode into town to book our diving excursion. Then it was off to do a little hiking and looking at waterfalls. Unfortunately, the waterfalls were a little less than magnificent since there was very little water, but the hiking was great and some of the views were amazing. While we were hiking the sun emerged (for the first time since we arrived) so we looked at each other and decided to go to the beach for some needed Vitamin D. We took a different road back towards the hostel and went past a safari park. What we saw were 5 elephants (too cool) and a bunch of people feeding them bananas. Both Anne and I wanted to join in so we bought some bananas and got to feed them to the massive animals. The trunks were amazing with how accurate they were and how easily they could take a banana from your hand. Although you could ride them, both of us decided to wait until another day and head out.
After about a half an hour on the beach (you couldn't really swim because it was too shallow) we went back, got changed and headed out to a two hour yoga session. This was not the type of yoga I have experienced and involved a lot more breathing and fast movements and chanting. Needless to say it was an experience (not sure one I would do again). We got a nice place in the back, but when the instructor asked if there was anyone new we were the only ones that raised our hands (many of the people were studying yoga here and were going twice a day for at least a week). What the raised hands got us was a nice spot in the front next to the instructor. He was very helpful, but he taught us more about our breathing than the correct body position of the moves. I don't think either one of us would do it again, but it was kind of cool to actually go (once you got over the whole fish out of water feeling).
Diving on the 4th day was amazing. We almost cancelled because the night before it was so windy it blew open our bungalow door and it had not completely settled when we got picked up. Our driver, however, assured us that the diving would be great and he was exactly right. The boat ride out to the diving was not the most fun, but once we got under water it was as calm as can be. My instructor, Alex - a Scottish bloke, was very knowledgeable and taught me a lot rules of diving. The greatest thing was he brought down a magnetic pad with him so he could tell me the fish names. We saw a white eyed moray eel, a spotted blue tail ray (cousin of the manta ray), a scorpion fish, tons of grouper, lots of angel fish and so much more that I can not remember. The coolest thing was seeing a bat fish change from dark grey to white and then back to dark grey. Alex said it was the first time he had ever seen that (and he has been diving in the area for 5 years). Needless to say it was a great diving day.
Although we were leaving at 10am on the 5th day we decided we had just enough time (and gas) to motor back to Haad Rin for one last look. This time, however, we were ready for the hills and our speed was greatly increased. We had to have the bikes back to the shop by 9:30am so we were cutting it a little tight when we left at 8am. Luckily, the speed allowed us to get the bikes back about 10 minutes early. When we rolled back to the bike shop the bikes were on empty for gas, but we figured it was only fair since that is how we picked them up. Both Anne and I were not sure we could do the trip and make it back to the shop on the gas we had, but we both barely made it (sometimes it is fun to see just how far you can go on a liter of gas). We were both really sad to leave Koh Pha Ngan, but after 5 great days I guess it was time. This is one of my favorite places in Thailand, so far, and I would love to get back there at some point - as long as it is low season again. Pictures to come later.
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